The Empty Nesters Kitchen

, , ,

6 Friends, 10 Days, 2 Cities: Our Unforgettable Tokyo & Kyoto Adventure

“In life, it’s not where you go, but who you travel with” ~ Charles M. Schulz

A group of six friends posing for a selfie in front of a traditional Japanese temple with red pagoda architecture and greenery in the background.

John and I have traveled to Japan three times, each visit deepening our love for its rich culture, unforgettable food, and timeless beauty. What began as an adventure for two in 2018 quickly grew into a lasting connection with a place that continues to surprise and inspire us each time we return. In fall 2023, we made our way back again, this time sharing the adventure with our adult sons. Experiencing Tokyo, Kanazawa and Osaka through their eyes added a new layer of meaning and unforgettable moments to our travels, and they described the trip in just two words: life changing. This past spring, we found ourselves setting our sights on Japan once again, this time as a crew of six lifelong friends, setting out to discover Tokyo and Kyoto together.

Traveling as a group transformed the rhythm of the journey, it added layers of laughter, conversation, and shared wonder that lingered long after the return flight home. In Tokyo, we wove through neon-lit streets alive with energy, Had a sushi breakfast at the Fish Market, attended a sumo wrestling tournament, sipped cocktails in the “tiny” bars in the Golden Gai district, and experienced a night food tour that took us through a variety of Japanese cuisines. In Kyoto, we slowed our pace some. The main street near the market was busy, but we did make our way off the beaten track to the hush of hidden temples and moss-draped gardens. We learned how to make sushi, bowed at ancient shrines, roamed the narrow covered streets of the high energy Nishiki Market, and lingered over meals that will forever shape the way we think about food. We carried home shared experiences born of numerous serendipitous moments. It was a chapter of connection and discovery, etched into memory, and we will cherish it for always.

Read on for some of the the Highlights of our Adventures In Japan

Sumo Wrestling Tournament In Tokyo

Watching our first sumo tournament in Tokyo (booked through Viator and Japan Awaits) was a thrilling glimpse into one of Japan’s most iconic and time-honored traditions. From the moment we stepped into the arena, the air buzzed with anticipation, the rhythmic beat of drums, the crowd’s collective energy, and the ceremonial rituals that gave each match a sense of reverence. The wrestlers entered the ring with focus and poise, performing age-old gestures of respect before each bout began. We were completely captivated by the strength, discipline, and cultural pride on display. The perfect blend of power and pageantry that left us in awe. Every match was a spectacle of strength and strategy. Our guide for the tournament made the experience even more fascinating by educating us about the daily life and traditions of a sumo wrestler. Beyond the bouts themselves, we discovered the incredible discipline required to live the life of a sumo wrestler: the strict diets, early-morning training routines, and centuries-old practices that shape every aspect of their lives. Each action, from the symbolic stomps to the precise way they prepare for a match, carries deep meaning and esteem for the sport’s rich history. It wasn’t just a sporting event, it was a window into a world of dedication, culture, and customs, unlike anything we had seen before. As the day came to a close, we left not just entertained, but moved by the artistry, discipline, and devotion that define sumo wrestling.

Sake Tasting at Japan Sake and Shochu Academy in Tokyo

At the Japan Sake & Shochu Academy, tasting sake is both a lesson and a delight. Knowledgeable staff were available to answer questions, but the experience was largely self-guided, supported by clear and easy-to-understand learning materials. We sampled a range of sakes, from crisp and dry to rich and aromatic. We discovered how rice, water, and technique shape each sip. The intimate setting made the experience social and memorable, leaving us with satisfied palates and a deeper appreciation for Japan’s centuries-old tradition.

A hand holding a pamphlet titled 'SAKE! How to Enjoy SAKE!' with illustrations of four people celebrating, along with various sake-related images in the background.
A group of people engaged in a sake tasting session at a modern venue, with tables set for tasting in a cozy atmosphere.
A hand holding a glass of clear sake with tasting glasses and menus on a wooden table in a tasting setting.
A menu featuring selections of sake with various descriptions and prices alongside tasting glasses filled with different sake types.
Group of four people enjoying a sake tasting session in a modern setting, surrounded by shelves of sake bottles and tasting menus.

Dinner at Wagokoro Tonkatsu Restaurant – Anzu Ginza Branch

This was a meal to remember. The tonkatsu arrived perfectly golden and crisp, with tender, flavorful pork that practically melted in the mouth. Before dining, guests are invited to crush toasted sesame seeds in a small mortar, releasing their warm, nutty aroma before mixing them into the house-made sauce—a simple, hands-on ritual that makes the experience both fun and personal. Each bite paired beautifully with a glass of chilled sake, chosen to complement the dish’s rich umami and delicate sweetness. Served with finely shredded cabbage, steaming miso soup, and fluffy Japanese rice, the meal struck the perfect balance of flavor, texture, and harmony. It’s comfort food elevated to an art form, and a delicious reminder of the care and precision that define Japanese cuisine. The dinner at Wagokoro Tonkatsu restaurant was a premium tonkatsu experience.

A chef in a restaurant kitchen skillfully prepares sashimi, with sake bottles in the foreground and a tidy workspace in view.
A wooden stick rests on a brown bowl containing sesame seeds, with a small white container nearby.
A close-up of a small bowl containing sesame seeds with a brown sauce being poured over them, set on a wooden surface.
A menu detailing how to enjoy katsu, including instructions for using salt, tonkatsu sauce, and lemon mustard, held by a hand in a restaurant setting.
Plate of crispy tonkatsu with a side of lemon and mustard, served on a decorative plate.
Two bottles of sake and a black iron teapot on a wooden table, accompanied by a small ceramic cup and a shallow bowl.

Evening Walking Food Tour – Tokyo

Tokyo at night is a tapestry of colors, aromas, and tastes, and a walking food tour is the perfect way to experience it. We wandered narrow alleys and hidden streets, tasting everything from sizzling yakitori to delicate sushi and steaming ramen bowls. Each dish revealed a story, and with every stop we uncovered something new to appreciate. Plates shared with friends, and the city’s vibrant energy made the evening unforgettable. By the end, we weren’t just full—we were immersed in Tokyo’s flavors, culture, and spirit, one delicious restaurant at a time. We signed up for this class through Viator and Arigato Travel. Our guides, Melody and Norma, made it both entertaining and wonderfully educational.

A busy street in Tokyo filled with people walking past shops and restaurants, showcasing colorful neon signs and urban architecture.
A group of friends enjoying a meal together at a restaurant in Japan, surrounded by dishes of food and drinks, with a warm, inviting atmosphere.
A vintage-style poster of a woman holding a bottle of Asahi beer, with a glass of beer on a bar, set against a backdrop of yellow signs in Japanese characters.
A person wearing a black shirt with the text 'Eat Walk Explore Repeat' on the back, standing in a bar filled with bottles and decorations.
A person exiting a restaurant in Japan, with vibrant signage and outdoor seating, while diners enjoy meals at tables nearby.
A plate of skewered grilled dango, featuring round rice dumplings glazed with a sweet soy sauce, showcasing a charred finish.
A platter of grilled green peppers on skewers, served with a drink and surrounded by a casual dining setting.
A beautifully cooked dish featuring a golden omelet served with a raw egg yolk on the side, accompanied by a green garnish on a black plate.
A woman with pink hair and glasses examines a menu in a restaurant, seated at a table with dark decor and bright hanging signs in the background.
Entrance to Omoide Yokocho in Shinjuku, Tokyo, showcasing various food stalls and people exploring the vibrant alleyway.
A bustling alley in Tokyo with colorful lanterns and cherry blossom decorations, lined with shops and people exploring the vibrant street scene.
A massive Godzilla figure perched atop a building in Tokyo, overlooking a movie advertisement featuring a dramatic image of a man.
A beautifully presented platter of assorted sashimi, featuring slices of salmon, tuna, and white fish, garnished with fresh greens, radish, and a lime wedge.
A plate of green bean tempura served on a dark dish, with several crispy and golden fried pieces arranged neatly, garnished with white paper underneath.
Interior view of a restaurant entrance featuring wooden decor, a service counter, and signage promoting PayPay payments.
A server pouring sake at a table in a Japanese restaurant, with various condiments and drinks on the table.
A wooden dining table set for a meal in a Japanese restaurant, featuring chopsticks, sauce dishes, and menus on the surface, along with a cozy seating area.
A bowl of ramen featuring noodles, broth, various toppings including mushrooms, green onions, pickled ginger, and seaweed, presented with a white spoon.
A chef in a yellow shirt prepares food in a steaming kitchen, viewed from a dining area with a menu displayed in front.
A busy ramen bar in Japan with diners enjoying their meals while seated at a counter, overhead lighting illuminating the space.
Entrance of a ramen restaurant in Japan, featuring a bright blue sign with Japanese characters and a welcoming atmosphere. Two individuals are seen waiting outside.
A bowl of ramen with noodles being lifted by chopsticks, garnished with green onions, seaweed, and colorful toppings, set on a white table.
A man enjoying a bowl of ramen while holding chopsticks, surrounded by friends at a vibrant street food location in Tokyo.
Two smiling friends sitting together in a cozy setting, one with pink hair and glasses, and the other in a bright orange shirt, surrounded by shelves filled with bottles.

Sushi Breakfast at the Toyosu Market in Tokyo

The morning buzz at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market is an exhilarating feast for the senses, and a spot at the sushi bar offers the ultimate front-row view of its fresh and vibrant seafood offerings. At the entrance of each building, three food courts beckon with mouth watering options for sashimi and sushi. For visitors from abroad, one of the highlights is the clear and informative English signage. It’s fascinating to learn about the fish varieties popular in Japan and the classic dishes they’re paired with, turning each meal into both a culinary adventure and a mini lesson in Japanese gastronomy. Chefs serve the day’s freshest catch, including the highest quality tuna, sea urchin, salmon roe and more. Dining at one of the small sushi restaurants, amid the lively energy of the market, is a raw, immersive, and unforgettable journey, a true glimpse into the vibrant heart of Tokyo’s food culture.

We didn’t make it in time for the famous early-morning tuna auction, which begins before dawn and draws both professional buyers and curious onlookers. But when we arrived later in the morning, traces of the action still lingered, the scent of the sea hung in the air, and workers were busy cleaning up after the day’s brisk trade. Massive tuna tails and glistening remnants of the morning’s prized catches hinted at the fast-paced energy that fills the market in those first hours. Just beyond the auction floor, we explored the nearby hallways, where well-curated exhibits and English-friendly displays tell the story of Tokyo’s iconic fish markets, from the legacy of the original Tsukiji Market to the modern Tsukiji Outer and Toyosu sites. The detailed explanations, photos, and scale models brought the market’s evolution to life, giving us a deeper appreciation for the generations of fishermen, vendors, and buyers who have shaped Japan’s seafood culture.

A bustling food market hallway in Japan, featuring colorful banners, lanterns, and various stalls showcasing traditional Japanese cuisine.
A person holding a traditional sake cup, with a sushi chef preparing food in the background at a Japanese restaurant.
A sushi platter featuring various types of sashimi, including tuna, displayed on a long black dish in a sushi restaurant setting, with diners and chefs in the background.
A close-up view of a piece of sushi topped with green onions and sauce, held with chopsticks, showcasing a variety of sushi in the background.
A group selfie featuring seven friends, smiling while standing together in a vibrant setting, likely in Japan.

Sushi Making Class – Kyoto

Atelier Sushi in Kyoto provided an experience that blended learning with fun. During our small group sushi workshop, we practiced the delicate art of weighing and shaping perfectly cooked sticky rice and rolling maki, celebrating small triumphs and chuckling at our inevitable missteps. When we finally sat down to enjoy the meal we had crafted, it tasted of more than fresh fish and sticky rice, it carried the fun of discovery and the warmth of sharing something new together. We signed up for this class through Viator. Our class was led by an experienced english speaking instructor. Thanks to Kana and her team, the experience was outstanding

“Atelier SUSHI offers a hands-on journey into sushi-making and Japanese culture, guided by a small, dedicated team.“

Welcome sign for Atelier Sushi, located on a street in Kyoto, Japan, with additional details about sushi-making experiences.
Group of friends posing outside a sushi-making workshop in Kyoto, Japan.
A dining setup in a Japanese restaurant featuring wooden tables and chairs, with placemats, chopsticks, and cups set for a meal. A person gestures animatedly, possibly explaining something to the group.
Group of people in aprons smiling while participating in a sushi-making class, with sushi platters on the table.
Plates of sushi featuring various types of fish, including tuna, salmon, and shrimp, arranged neatly and covered with plastic wrap.
A wooden bowl filled with freshly cooked sushi rice, with a pair of chopsticks resting on the rim, alongside a plate of sashimi.
A beautifully arranged plate of sushi including various types of nigiri and maki rolls, served with dipping sauces and garnishments, showcasing the artistry of Japanese cuisine.
A sign reading 'KYOTO WAND' on a textured wall.
A variety of sushi served on a slate board, featuring different types of nigiri and maki rolls, accompanied by chopsticks and wasabi.

Visit to the Nishiki Market – Kyoto

Kyoto’s Nishiki Market is a true sensory delight. Wandering through its bustling aisles, we sampled an incredible variety of local flavors. We nibbled on crispy sweet potato chips, watched fresh sushi and sashimi being prepared, and sampled a variety of ingredients in vibrant colors and surprising flavors. From skewers of grilled eel and yakitori to delicate yuba (tofu skin) and handmade mochi sweets, every stall offered a new taste and story. We even sipped local sake and admired the skill of vendors crafting their specialties right before our eyes

A vibrant and crowded view of Nishiki Market in Kyoto, Japan, showcasing bustling shoppers amidst colorful banners and hanging lights.
A display of tempura lobster skewers at a food stall, featuring a playful sign that reads 'Cash Only' and an illustration of a woman alongside the lobster, inviting customers to enjoy the dish.
A vendor in an apron prepares wagyu beef sushi at a food stall, with various sushi options displayed on wooden trays in front.
Fresh vegetables displayed for sale at a market stall, with price tags in Japanese. The assortment includes green onions, cucumbers, and other produce, highlighting the vibrancy of local shopping in Japan.
A food stall at a bustling market in Japan, displaying an array of skewered and fried seafood, including shrimp and scallops, with customers browsing and selecting items.
Fresh vegetables for sale at a market stall in Japan, including green onions, cucumbers, and other produce with price tags visible.
A vendor prepares food at a market stall while a customer observes in a bustling Japanese market.
A hand holding a bag of green snacks labeled with Japanese characters, surrounded by various packaged goods and colorful signs in a market setting.
A food stall in Tokyo's market featuring a menu with various Japanese dishes and a vendor serving customers.
A bustling market scene in Kyoto, featuring colorful lanterns and a crowd of people exploring food stalls.
Display of sweet potato chips for sale at a market stall, with various sizes and shapes arranged in wooden containers.
A display of various food items at a market stall in Kyoto, featuring skewers of sparrows for sale alongside other local delicacies, with price tags visible.
Two men examining food options at a vibrant market in Japan, with colorful signage and various dishes displayed.
A person standing in a busy market, holding a skewer of food, while looking intently at the surroundings filled with colorful signs and food stalls.
A large, brightly colored crab claw sculpture positioned outside a restaurant in Japan, showcasing the vibrant decor and inviting atmosphere of the dining area.

Okonomiyaki Lunch (located right near the Nishiki Market in Kyoto)

In Kyoto, okonomiyaki is a must-try. Layers of cabbage, batter, and your choice of fillings sizzle on a hot griddle, finished with tangy sauce, mayo, and bonito flakes. Eating around the sizzling griddle, each bite is a perfect mix of flavor and texture, a hands-on, quintessentially Japanese experience.

Front view of a restaurant named Warai, featuring a woman standing outside, surrounded by promotional signage and a lantern.
Two portions of okonomiyaki on a cooking platter, garnished with a sunny-side-up egg.
Hands preparing okonomiyaki with a fried egg on top, served on a hot griddle.
Two hands preparing okonomiyaki on a hot griddle, with a fried egg topping, showcasing a popular Japanese culinary experience.
Hands using chopsticks to prepare okonomiyaki on a hot griddle in a restaurant.

Dinner at Moon & Back Ramen Bar in Kyoto

Tucked away in Kyoto’s Nakagyō district, MOON and BACK isn’t just another ramen spot, it is a place where tradition meets creativity in every bowl. What makes it truly special is the chef’s playful reinvention of ramen: from the dramatic flame-torched Wagyu beef ramen to the silky soy-milk vegan version, every dish feels like an experiment in flavor and presentation. Beyond the food, the interactive, inclusive vibe sets it apart—diners can customize bowls, choose gluten-free noodles, and even enjoy brunch-style sides in a bright, modern setting. It’s a ramen experience that surprises you, delights your palate, and proves that Kyoto’s culinary scene is constantly evolving. Madonna once stopped by MOON and BACK for a bowl, proof that this modern take on ramen appeals to every kind of food lover, from global icons to curious travellers.

A chef using a blow torch to sear Wagyu beef in a bowl, creating dramatic flames for an impressive culinary presentation.
A group of people dining at a ramen restaurant in Kyoto, enjoying bowls of ramen with chopsticks and drinks on the table.
A steaming bowl of ramen with noodles being lifted by chopsticks, showcasing slices of pork and green onions.

Thank you for joining me on this adventure through Tokyo and Kyoto. I hope it sparks your wanderlust and inspires you to discover the magic of Asia for yourself.

Latest Posts

You can also follow The Empty Nesters Kitchen on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter! My new Empty Nesters Kitchen Travel Instagram account in now active as well. Check it out here.

Looking for a gift that’s a little different? Delight the food lover on your list with my Eat Your Words Puzzle Book, packed with clever word puzzles and foodie fun. Grab your copy on Amazon or if you live in the Twin Cities, head to the Westside Wine & Spirits Market, located in St. Louis Park.

A person holding a book titled 'Eat Your Words' in front of a restaurant with a large red crab sign.

“Farm to Table…Ocean to Fork…and Vineyard to Glass.  We cast our votes in favor of the planet one bite, one sip at a time” ~ Lisa Patrin

←
→

One response to “6 Friends, 10 Days, 2 Cities: Our Unforgettable Tokyo & Kyoto Adventure”

Leave a Reply

Discover more from The Empty Nesters Kitchen

Subscribe now to keep reading and get access to the full archive.

Continue reading