“The urge to travel feels magnetic. Two of my favorite words are linked: departure time. And travel whets the emotions, turns upside down the memory bank, and the golden coins scatter” ~ Frances Mayes

My first trip to Japan was in the Fall of 2018. John had been there numerous times for work so while it was familiar to him, it was a fresh travel adventure for me. I was immediately mesmerized upon stepping off the plane and into the Tokyo-Haneda airport. The unfamiliar naturally breeds a heightened sense of the environment and my foray into Tokyo was a full on cultural immersion. There was a magnetic energy that drew me in and took hold. I knew instantly that this would not be my only trip to this beautiful country. This wasn’t going to be a “travel” one hit wonder. There had to be more to come. My memory bank was open and ready to be filled.

We had booked a return trip to Japan in 2021 but COVID restrictions kept our visit at bay for 2 additional years. At the end of September, 2023 we departed for the family trip of a lifetime with our two adult son’s, Josh and Nick. The anticipation of sharing this adventure with them had been simmering and we couldn’t wait for departure time. This was their first trip to Asia and we hoped they would be as taken in by Japan as we have been. Approximately 16 hours via Delta Airlines ( around 4 hours from MSP to LA then about 12 from LA to the Tokyo-Haneda airport) is all that stood between us and a place so altogether transfixing that we will have recollections of traveling here as a foursome forever. This article covers the first 2 days of our 8 day trip. After Tokyo, we took the Shinkansen to Kanazawa and then to Osaka. We also spent our final day in Japan in Tokyo on the return back. Stay tuned for the follow up articles on those legs of our journey. 

Tokyo – Day 1

We landed at Haneda airport at 2:00 in the afternoon on a Friday. First stop after leaving customs was to purchase train tickets. John bought 72 hour passes that we could use on most of the local trains (except the JR line.) We took the train from the airport to a stop located a few blocks from our hotel in the Ginza district. Pulling our carry-ons after sitting for so long was not difficult, it felt good to stretch our legs and walk. One might think a taxi or an Uber (yes, they do have Uber in Tokyo) would be a better option but having done the taxi route on our first visit to Tokyo, we knew it was quite a bit more expensive and would likely take more time (with waiting in the taxi que and afternoon traffic). Hopping the train in the airport was so easy. We did this on the way back to the airport at the end of our trip as well. Haneda has a “first time customers” page on their website for those new to the airport.

Photo gallery below chronicles the time from our arrival to our departure for Kanazawa.

Landing in Haneda – This is where John purchased train tickets for the ride to the station closest to our hotel. Train and Monorail information information here.

We checked into the Daiwa Roynet Hotel Ginza Premier then made our way to Ippudo for our first steaming slurps of ramen and an ice cold beer. This restaurant is a short walk from the hotel. We first picked the Ginza neighborhood for our base in this area in 2018. We decided to book accommodations here again as we find it to be logistically central to many restaurants, train stations, entertainment venues, the shopping district and more. 

On our first night in Tokyo we meandered up and down the streets, soaking in the vividly colored lights located at varying heights, starting at the street level and on skyward. This is a place you should never, ever forget to look up. There is an electric energy to this city, and one can’t help but be awestruck. We made our way to the Golden Gai area on the recommendation of a friend (this is located in Shinjuku). The area is known as one of Tokyo’s top places to seek out a beverage. Narrowly woven alleyways are packed with tiny “watering holes”. Most bars seat anywhere between 4 to 10 people. The mom and pop spot we ended up at was a tiny structure with wood lined walls, a teeny bar, and two proprietors who made us feel completely welcome despite our language barrier. We made sure to learn the basics before traveling: please, thank you, greetings specific to times of day, etc but it is amazing how much can be communicated through gestures, smiles and a notepad (see image #6.) 

Tokyo Day 2 – Breakfast – This was a grab and go meal consisting of a highly necessary convenience store latte to aid my jet lag situation + an egg salad sandwich to settle my mid-morning hunger. The egg salad sandwiches in Japan are legendary, and after eating one almost everyday that we were there, I concur. We bought them from Family Mart, Lawson and 7-Eleven, which were all within walking distance of every hotel we stayed in during our travels around Japan. Tip on the lattes/coffees: I discovered that in most stores you need to purchase the cup first from behind the counter ( they do not sit next to the machine). It took me a bit of searching and my best attempt at inquiring about where they were, from the shop owner to learn this. The machine itself was pretty easy to operate.

Tokyo Day 2 – Toyosu Fish Market We headed to the Toyosu Fish Market early to get a glimpse of where the famous daily tuna auction occurs. Click here for what to expect if you would like to reserve a spot to view the auction. We did not attend the auction on this trip, but the photo below shows the view of a few tuna that remained after the auction ended. We took our time exploring the market halls. There are food stalls, vendors selling kitchen tools including Japanese knives (if I hadn’t opted for a carry-on only for this trip I would have purchased a couple to take home) and sushi restaurants galore. Lunch at the market was a perfect segue into our many delectable sushi adventures. While we used google translate as a tool at most spots, the owner at this location saw our attempts to read the menu outside, came and greeted us and asked us to point at what sushi meals we desired. 

Visit to the Sensoji Temple and historic temple neighborhood – The reverence and quiet inside the temple is in direct contrast to the lively scene that sits right outside its doors (I did not take pictures of the interior of the temple out of respect.) An open air market and a plethora of storefronts lined the neighborhood streets surrounding the temple. We spent the whole afternoon stepping in and out of the unique shops and sampling a variety of sweet and savory treats.  

We grabbed a light dinner at Birdland Restaurant (first 3 images) where we enjoyed yakitori skewers and saki. This was followed by a walk around Tokyo that culminated with a visit to Omoide Yokocho (also known as Memory Lane or Drunkards alley – don’t let this second name dissuade you.) This is a historic area with around 60 small food and beverage structures tucked into narrow alleyways. The haze of smoke rising from the grills, the clatter of cooking utensils and the aromas entice you to enter. What keeps you there are the vibes and the food. Skewers of meat, vegetables, and seafood were what we were after. We first learned of this location while watching Somebody Feed Phil on Netflix. The slight size of these structures can tend to make gaining entrance a challenge, but the thrill of the chase to obtain a seat means following the scents, peeking into spots as you go and when you see open chairs, you head in. If you continue to wander and think you’ll be able to go back, the spots will be gone. We ended up splitting up with Josh and Nick on this particular night as we were able to get 2 seats (in 2 different locations). We were ok with it, it’s part of the adventure and it was fun to share stories of our respective dining and sipping experiences on the walk home. No vendor in this area is exactly the same.

Tokyo is adrenalizing, yet the overall environment is laced with a calming sense of structure. Things like, staying to the left when using the stairs (instead of the right which we are more accustomed to), to queing up properly while waiting for the trains and so much more. We felt a palpable sense of politeness, even in the vast crowds. Our first two days were spent getting reacquainted with our surroundings, and it is with absolute truth that I say, absence makes the heart grow fonder. 

Stay tuned for part 2 of our trip: Kanazawa. Pictured below: Waiting for the Shinkansen and my train station snack to take on board. 

Recommended travel activity:

The Eat Your Words Puzzle Book is a perfect food and beverage themed travel activity! Learn about global cuisine, cooking techniques, kitchen tools and more while waiting to board your airplane, flying, riding on the bus or train, while relaxing at the beach and more.

Test your food & beverage knowledge of Japan (answers below):

1. Slightly sweet wine made of steamed, fermented rice.
2. Skillfully prepared dish made by rolling rice, seafood, or other ingredients into a sheet of seaweed.  It is cut into smaller pieces prior to serving.
3. Thick noodles made from wheat and flour.  Can be purchased fresh or dried, in Asian markets. 
4. Vegetables or seafood, lightly battered and deep fried.  Has a light, puffy coating and a crunchy texture.
5. Omelet seasoned and filled with rice.  Originated in Tokyo. 

Eat Your Words answers:

1. Sake
2. Sushi
3. Udon
4. Tempura
5. Omurice

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